I woke up at about 6 or 7am, got dressed and stuffed the clothes I’d slept in inside my backpack, before rushing sleepily down the stairs to the reception area so that I’d have time for a coffee before the bus arrived.
I spent 10 minutes or so having a final chat with the receptionist who’d been so good to me during my stay, before the little minibus (in a rare occurrence) turned up right on time. I jumped on and grabbed a seat at the back with a little bit of leg room.
It turned out I was quite lucky to be one of the first pick ups, as in brilliantly Thai fashion the bus company had sold about 5 more tickets than they had seats.
At the last stop, someone who would eventually go on to become a great friend to me got on the bus.
I immediately hated him.
“What the hell?! Where are we supposed to sit? On the floor? You’re kidding.”
Oh, good. A stereotypically loud, obnoxious American. Just what an early morning bus ride needs.
“Yes, please just find space. You can move later.”
“This is ridiculous! I don’t even fit!”
Ok, he had a point there to be fair. The narrow aisle between rows of seats was better suited to a small Thai body than his large frame, but still. You’re in Thailand, and sometimes this nonsense is part of the adventure. Yelling wouldn’t free up any seats.
He kept ranting for a while as we took off from that stop, so I just cranked up the music on my ipod to drown him out and stared out of the windows as the town became countryside.
We continued for about 2 hours (though thankfully, the ranting didn’t) until reaching the ferry to take us the short distance from mainland to island. We were able to get off the minibus while on the ferry, so I took my headphones out and tried to strike up a conversation with the girl who’d been sitting next to the loud American. Partly to give her some respite, and partly because she was pretty.
Though she could (and to her frustration, often did) easily pass as a local, Nikki was English born and raised, a uni student taking a break to travel. She told me she’d only met the American guy on the bus, and once he stopped complaining, he was actually alright.
On the one hand I was glad she hadn’t suffered the whole journey, on the other selfishly wished he was a complete dick so I could be her excuse to get away.
Nevertheless, he soon wandered over to introduce himself as Alex from the United States and as of that moment, the three of us barely separated until I left the island.
With a few seats left vacant on the minibus by that point I sat next to them when we got back on and we collectively decided that we may as well stick together, and split a nice room at a resort rather than each paying for separate accommodation. Though still holding a few reservations about Alex I went it because it meant I already had people to share the next few days with. Besides, if he did get too annoying maybe it’d work in my favour if it drove Nikki and I to split off for a bit.
Now on the island, the driver offered to drop us off by the Muay Thai arena when we told him we hadn’t booked accommodation, as there were a few resorts and guesthouses within walking distance of it.
We tried to make sense of his vague directions while standing in the vacant car park next to the Muay Thai place, and eventually asked the bar staff in the Irish pub across the street for help, promising to head back there for drinks in the evening.
Only around 5 minutes down the road we found a nice little resort, apparently one of the only ones still operating during the low season, and they offered us a triple room at about a third of the high season price. The per person cost was similar to a fancy hostel or private room in an old guesthouse, so we gladly accepted. Straight away we dumped our bags, claimed a bed each, and strolled down to the beach.
It was a little later that afternoon that I learnt one of my most valuable lessons about Thailand - the culinary delight that is the 7-11 toasted sandwich.
Craving snacks and some beers to drink on the beach, we went to the 7-11 just along the road and Alex grabbed a packaged toastie, declaring it to be ‘the best breakfast in Thailand’.
I couldn’t believe it. Thailand, home of some of the best food on this planet, and a fucking convenience store toasted sandwich is your idea of the perfect breakfast? What a tool. I argued back that this was stupid, declaring pad kra pow (spicy minced pork with rice & a fried egg) to be my choice for the title, and certain that this toastie couldn’t be that good anyway.
He assured me he was skeptical at first too, and insisted I try one before knocking it. I grabbed one from the open fridge and took it to the counter with my beer. The cashier toasted our sandwiches while I continued making my lighthearted but genuine disdain for the situation clear to Alex and a bemused and amused Nikki.
I tucked into the sandwich while we walked back to the beach, and slowly realised the error of my ways. From that moment on the Thai 7-11 toastie became a staple part of my diet when in Thailand. I told Alex that it felt completely wrong to love a sandwich this much when Thai cuisine was so good, but had to concede it was indeed amazing.
We stayed on the beach chatting and getting to know each other until it was late enough to justify going back to the Irish pub for dinner and a lot more drinks. I’d also insisted on being in the pub in time to watch an Australia vs Japan world cup qualifier, and apologised in advance for likely being bad company for the duration of the match. Alex made a game out of supporting Japan just to antagonise me, while the three of us all got chatting with the expat Irishman who owned the place. We put away plenty of drinks throughout the evening (barman included), the banter getting harsher but more and more fun throughout. By the time it was dark outside, we were already getting on as if we’d known each other for years.
After a few hours Nikki decided to call it a night. Alex and I weren’t quite done, and ventured on to another little bar where we met a small group of backpackers and weird long term expats who seemed to have mild drug problems.
I’d come around with my thoughts on Alex by now. He was stereotypically loud and brash, but also great fun to be around and clearly had a good heart. No shortage of fascinating stories either.
Inevitably now that the two of us were together without Nikki for the first time, we spoke a little about her. Unsurprisingly we agreed that she was gorgeous and generally a lot of fun, but pretty much left it at that. I felt that the two of them were getting a bit close during the evening, and wondered how it might affect the dynamic if that kept up while all 3 of us were sharing a room.
Alex and I stayed until the early hours chatting and playing some drinking games before finally heading back to get some sleep. It’d been a long day.
I honestly have very little recollection of what we did on our middle day of three on the island. I think we rented bikes for a bit and had lunch in a restaurant overlooking the water on the other side of the island. Alex had been to Koh Lanta a couple of times before and had a loose knowledge of some of the good spots, so I followed him on my own bike as Nikki rode with him.
It was a nice, chilled day, the kind that’s amazing when you’re backpacking but somewhat forgettable all the same (which really, is part of the appeal).
It was nothing like our last day on Koh Lanta before all going our separate ways - Nikki onwards to somewhere else in Thailand, Alex to an island in Indonesia known for its diving, and me to somewhere I hadn’t decided on yet, I just knew I wanted to start working my way North. Maybe another island, maybe another town between there and Bangkok, maybe all the way to the capital. I figured I just needed to decide before it got too late to organise my travel.
So anyway, on that final day we decided to set out on our bikes and spend a few hours at this beach Alex had been to before. On arrival there we decided to crash a slightly upmarket resort on the beachfront, drinking their bar dry and hopping in and out of the pool all afternoon.
It was amazing, but the more the drinks flowed, the more obvious the flirting got between Alex and Nikki, and the harder it was for me to not feel a little awkward about it. It wasn’t that I was particularly jealous - although she was attractive and plenty of fun, there clearly wasn’t a spark between us and I was more than content to have gained a new friend. I even confided in her about my confused feelings for Sasha and my general lack of confidence with girls since my breakup, despite the boost from Koh Pha Ngan.
Instead the awkwardness came from the fact I just felt the need to leave them alone to have some privacy, and it wasn’t an option where we were. I didn’t know the way back or have a map to work it out, so couldn’t really get on my bike and leave without them. The area was secluded, with nowhere else to go besides the beach.
I did go for a stroll down the beach at one point and I guess Alex knew what was up, as he soon came down to join me for a chat. I told him that I really didn’t mind that they were clearly on the verge of hooking up, just felt like I was getting in their way a bit. He quickly told me not to worry about it, and that they both wanted me around still. He seemed genuine despite the obvious vibe between them as the afternoon had worn on, and I did feel better afterwards about my status as the third wheel.
After rejoining Nikki at the resort, Alex quite deliberately sat with me next to the pool for a bit rather than getting in with her. We got more drinks and cruelly but hilariously teased Nikki for her height, pulling her cocktail just out of arm's reach from the pool edge.
It didn’t last of course, and once I’d caught them smooching in the corner of the pool after I’d been to the bar to buy another round, decided to ask the resort staff on the volleyball court if I could join their game in order to give them some space.
I was absolutely woeful at volleyball, but had fun getting laughed at by the staff for my terrible skills. After 10 minutes or so the other two paused their make out session to join us for the end of the game.
The sun started to set as we downed our last drinks, and we agreed to drive past our own resort and on to the strip of restaurants a kilometre or so further along the main road. As per usual, Alex would lead the way with Nikki on his bike, and I’d follow.
We got moving and along some of the quiet, straight stretches of road, Alex was turning his head to kiss Nikki while driving. It looked risky as shit, but he was a really experienced rider and didn’t veer off course even slightly, so really I was just impressed more than anything. That said I didn't necessarily appreciate the show while having no choice but to look forward.
When we were around half way there, Alex slowed down to get me to pull in and drive alongside them. He asked if I wanted to lead for a change, seeing as it was all straight along the same road from there and I knew the route. Preferring to look at open road rather than them getting increasingly handsy with each other, I agreed and quickly sped up to lead the way.
I glanced back every few minutes or so as we went, and at one stage maybe a kilometre or two from where our resort was, they’d disappeared. I thought maybe they’d just fallen behind because of some traffic lights or something as I was keeping up a decent pace, so I pulled over to let them catch up.
As the minutes passed, I gradually came to realise they weren’t coming, and I was pissed. They must have asked me to lead so they could sneak off behind me, and get some alone time in the room.
What a scumbag move! Honestly, if either of them had discreetly asked me before we set off, I’d have been all for it. I’d have gladly gone to dinner by myself, dragged it out by nursing a couple of beers, and gone back once enough time had passed for them to have their fun. But no, they had to pull a fast one on me, and that was bullshit.
After about 10 minutes I gave up on them and got back on the bike, smoke practically coming out of my ears as I sped along to find a restaurant and give them their time alone.
I found a great little spot, ordered some barbecue chicken with sticky rice, and read a few articles and blog posts on my phone to pass the time. I gradually calmed down as I enjoyed my meal in the relaxing surroundings of the restaurant and it’s ambient outdoor lighting.
I took my time, wanting to make sure I went back with a cool head instead of going off at them both when I saw them. I also wanted to ensure they’d both be dressed when I turned up.
Eventually I paid up, hopped on my bike, and drove the short distance to the resort.
Walking over to our room from where I parked the bike, I saw Alex sitting alone and smoking a cigarette on the park bench type seat on the veranda next to our front door.
“So uh, how was dinner?” I asked him sarcastically, clearly insinuating that dinner was in fact, sex with Nikki.
“How was dinner? We got hit by a fucking truck.”
Oh, fuck.
I very suddenly realised I had completely misread this, and had unknowingly abandoned my friends when they got into an accident.
Shit.
“Oh, shit. I turned around and didn’t see you and assumed…”
“I know exactly what you thought, and I don’t blame you, don’t worry. I would’ve thought the same. But some asshole was drunk driving and knocked us off our bike and flying off the road. Check this out.”
He turned around a little to show me the deep cuts and scrapes all over his back and arm. Ouch. It dawned on me that I couldn’t even see Nikki yet. Was she even there? Was she in hospital? What a selfish prick I’d been.
“Fuck. You ok? Where’s Nikki? Is she here? Is she ok? I’m so sorry I didn’t get back sooner. I stayed away for a while to make sure I didn’t get back when you were...you know.”
“It’s cool. She’s inside lying down. She’s got some real bad cuts, but she’ll be alright. She’s struggling with the shock more than anything.”
Still feeling like a dick, I rushed inside to see her, ask how she was, and make some poor attempt at comforting her. She looked exhausted, almost in a daze and like she was still trying to get her head around what on earth had just happened.
Together they told me a bit more about the accident. The truck (like a ute in Australia, or a pick up truck) had suddenly veered from the centre of the road right into them on the inside, throwing them off the bike and flying through the air until landing in the bushes beside the road. The bike was destroyed, essentially a write off. Cops showed up and took the driver away (we later discovered that he was drunk driving in his company car, and subsequently lost his job and served some jail time), and helped the pair of them get back to the resort.
Trying to absorb the situation that was so far from what I’d convinced myself had happened, I asked if there was anything at all I could do for Nikki, who was clearly worse for wear - unlike Alex who said he’d had worse crashes before.
“Painkillers? Bandages? A hug? Gauze? Chocolate? Alcohol? Dinner?”
I was the only one with a bike now, and offered to ride back up the main road to pick up supplies. Alex took a look over her cuts and said more bandages would be good, as well as something to clean them up with. Nikki told me that chocolate would actually be pretty comforting in her state. I zipped up the road on a mission to be useful.
Chocolate was easy, and I bought a lot, trying to make up for the heavy sense of guilt for assuming my friends had screwed me over when they were actually in trouble. The bandages, not so easy. I searched every single store, and drove much further up the road than I had done before, almost reaching the ferry port (or at least, it seemed that far) before I finally found a place selling them.
I sped home and apologised for taking so long. Alex cleaned up a couple of Nikki’s cuts that still had a few bits of missed gravel in them, and patched her up with the bandages while she got stuck into the chocolate.
Alex and I went back to the seat outside once we knew Nikki was comfortable, and chatted over the beers I got for us. I apologised again, and we spoke more about what could’ve been with them before the crash. After a while we stepped inside to check on Nikki, and she’d fallen asleep. Leaving her to rest we left her a note just in case she woke up alone, and then walked up to the Irish pub to drink Alex’s pain and my guilt away.
The owner kept the drinks flowing, eventually joining us in drinking as he listened to the story of the crash, my misinterpretation, and the aftermath. He told us some grisly tales of previous accidents on the island, including one poor expat who was decapitated by a big logging truck years ago. Not the best thing to hear in the circumstances, but perhaps allowing us to feel relieved that it was at least nowhere near as bad as it could’ve been. He also reassured us that the resort owners were decent people, and wouldn’t demand stupid money for the damage to the bike, something that has happened to plenty of unfortunate backpackers in the past.
We drank far too much, staying in the bar until 2 or 3am. Not the best idea given I had to be on a bus at 6:30am. I called it a night a good few hours later than I should have, but wanted to make the most of my last night with Alex enough to put up with the inevitable struggle to come.
Getting back to our room Nikki was still fast asleep, and I said a proper goodbye to Alex, knowing he wouldn’t awake for hours after I was due to leave in the morning.
It was a strange way to end my time on Koh Lanta. I’d ended up considering Alex a good friend just days after being certain he was an obnoxious douche on the bus. I got to explore most of the island thanks to his knowledge from prior visits. I felt awkward for a while as a bit of a third wheel, pissed off for a couple of hours at my friends for deceiving me, only to be wracked with guilt for it once I knew the truth.
Both of them stuck around for another day or two longer than planned to deal with the aftermath of the accident, before continuing on their separate ways.
I meanwhile had been exchanging messages with Sasha on that final day, and let her convince me to skip through central Thailand and head all the way north to Chiang Mai to join up with her.
Time to make amends for Penang.